Saturday, January 2, 2016

MAGAM January Project Plan - Office Wear

The January theme for Make A Garment A Month is 'Jump into January'.  I thought perhaps I should update my office wear. All my office wear were made or purchased before I had children. Unfortunately my body has changed dramatically since having 2 kids. Some of the office wear garments are looking quite ill-fitting. I figured that it was time to make some new and better fitting office wear this year.

I have loads of stash patterns and stash office appropriate fabrics so I won't need to buy anything new. The first item I want to make is a pair of elastic waist office trousers. What? Elastic waist? Yes Elastic waist. My weight fluctuates quite a bit during the monthly cycle and all the changes happen at my midriff. Also, I tend to gain weight in the cooler months and lose weight in the warmer months. Again all these changes happen at my waistline. So it really makes sense for me to make elastic waist woven trousers.

My challenge was to find a pattern that can accommodate the following:
  • a large waistline
  • bulging lower abdomen
  • wide but flat and lumpy derriere
I settled on my stash pattern Simplicity 1696. It seems to have a lot of options to change the fit of the trousers which I'm sure I'll need. I am expecting to have to make lots of adjustment due to my body shape as well as having to make these trousers from a pattern of a pair of zip-front trousers with a contour waistband, to a pair of elastic-waisted trousers.
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As for the fabric, I have lots of small pieces of tropical wool fabrics that I bought a few years ago when a local fabric shop closed down. Tropical wool is one of my favourite type of fabric for office wear as one can practically wear it all year round. I have just enough to make these pants with this small piece of fabric:

I have some remnant sheet that I can use to make a muslin. The trouble is I don't really know how non-stretch woven trousers are supposed to fit on me. I have learned how to fit myself with stretch woven pants or stretch jeans but not non-stretch woven ones. This should be a good learning experience!

9 comments:

  1. A bit harsh on yourself re those bulletpoints! I have sewn jeans but not trousers yet. I like the idea of 'amazing fit' patterns as trousers rarely fit in shops/order.

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    1. Thanks Renata Laura! I wasn't really being harsh on my body with those bullet points. I was just making a mental note on the places on the pattern pieces that I would need to modify to make the pants look better on my body. I'm really looking forward to fitting these pants so I can use it as a tried and true non-stretch woven pants pattern!

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  2. A bit harsh on yourself re those bulletpoints! I have sewn jeans but not trousers yet. I like the idea of 'amazing fit' patterns as trousers rarely fit in shops/order.

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  3. I chuckled at this post - oh to see ourselves honestly and then to dress to flatter:). I think it a good idea to make something that can change as you do - the straighter figure type does put on weight around the middle first. I do as well, and love elastic waists. I will be interested in how these pants work out - for you and for me, because I also need to make some office pants with give in the waist. Usually I resort to a waisted pant and put elastic in the centre back. And have a flat front. I guess elastic could go all the way to the side seam or even toward the front.

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz! I have reconciled with the fact that elastic waisted trousers are my friends now. The challenge is to make them flatter and not look matronly. I hope this project doesn't give me too much pain!

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  4. I think this pattern will suit your needs well. I have it as well, but have never used it. It will be great to see how these turn out.

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    1. Thanks Vanessa for your comment. I'm really excited to try this pattern too. Hopefully, once I have tweaked it, it will become a tried and true pattern for me.

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  5. Stretchy pants have become my friend over the years. I am very short-waisted so regular pants with regular waistbands are very uncomfortable; also my body has developed increasing sensitivity to pressure. Having said that, there ARE comfortable stylish woven pants out there (ready-to-wear), so you can sew them too! Good luck with your alterations. I will be reading along with interest!

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    1. Thanks Jenny! I think altering the fit for the legs and bum will be much more challenging than just changing the zip front pants to elastic-waisted pants. Let's hope there are not too many tears to be shed! ;-)

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